I am back in Scotland for the week to do 3 lectures for the Royal Scottish Geographical Society the lectures are about climbing the highest peaks in the Arctic and Antarctic while packing to fly over my brother called to say it had snowed so I packed some climbing kit just in case the snow held and we could get out on the hill. We headed into the Northern Coires on Saturday. There was loads more snow than I expected with all the buttresses plastered things looked great. The ski area was open with good cover and there were people skiing off the back of Cairngorm and touring on the Plateau. We left the car about 8 which was about 30mins to late as there were teams on all the routes on Mess of Pottage that we were interested in so we headed across to the right of the coire and climbed Fingers Ridge IV,4. There was loads of snow on the route so it was a bit of dig but great fun. There were teams climbing on Honey Pot, The Message, Pot of Gold, The Seam, Invernookie and Stirling Bomber. John Lyall waded his way into Lochain and climbed Deep Throat. Even if the snow doesn't last it's a great start to the winter.

I'm still in Scotland so can't load pics but they will follow as soon as I get home.

Just back from a couple of great weeks in Croatia we had great time sea kayaking and climbing.

Croatia is close enough to chamonix that we could drive there in about 12hrs with all the toys in the Van. After the long drive we started the trip proper taking a ferry from Zadar to Dugi Otok then driving to the south end of the island to the Telascica national park we planned to have a 4 day circumnavigation of the Kornati National park an amazing group of over 80 islands most of them uninhabited. We had to load the kayaks with loads of fresh water as there is no water on any of the islands. The first day we paddled about half way down the main island of Kornat visiitng various islands along the way. We spent the nigh camped on the pier of a seasonal village which was only inhabited by a few fishermen and a herd of wild donkey's which decided to visit us in the night. The next day we carried on to the south end of Kornat to a beautiful bay, we could view the whole archipelago from the top of the hill. We were planning to take 2 days over the rest of trip but a mixed weather forecast and great paddling enticed us into making the 40km trip back in a oner.

After 3 days in a kayak and a day off getting the ferry back to the mainland we drove the short distance to Paklenica National Park. This is the most well known climbing venue in Croatia and has the largets collection of routes in any one place. There is everything from single pitch to 350m marathons. On our first days climbing we didn't manage a particulary early start so went for the long but relatively straight forward Mosoraski 350m 5c most of the climbing was really nice steady stuff in the 4's but the crux is an awkward polished corner crack/groove that soon leads to a great final pitch up a featured wall. The next day we decided to try something a bit harder climbing Slovenski 200m 6a the guide book mentions a loose block high on the route but it is well wedged in and easy to bridge round. The climbing was continuosly steep and interesting with loads of bridging upa series of cracks and grooves.

After a couple of days climbing we headed south to Dubrovnik, this made us really realise how long a coast line Croatia really has, it took over 5 hours to drive down the coast. We found some accomodation outside Dubrovnik with the help of a local sea kayak company Huck Finn the first day we explored the local Zaton bay then we paddled about 1 3/4 hrs down the coast to Dubrovnik which was the perfect way to arrive in the city and gave us a great view of the walls. The last day in the area we paddled round the beautiful Kolocep island enjoying one of the few sandy beaches we found in the area. We had to start the long trek home from here we split the drive having a day at Paklenika climbing the superb Domzalski in the morning and going kayaking in the afternoon. We drove from Paklenika to Venice where we had a day then home.

I was working for Mont Blanc Guides for the last three days of my summer season. The clients booked on a 6 day Mont Blanc week with 3 days acclimatisation then have 3 days for the ascent. I met the team in Les Houches on Wed morning, we headed up to the Tete Rousse hut where we had the best dinner I have had there, Tarteflette. We left the hut at 5am on Thursday climbing to the now closed Gouter hut in the dark where we put on more clothes before heading up the Dome du Gouter, we met a couple of teams coming down who had failed to summit due to the cold. By starting later the day was warming as we climbed, by the time we reached the summit at 1330 the wind had dropped and we sat on the summit for 30mins which is the first time I have managed to do that. The descent went steadily putting us back at the Tete Rousse in time for dinner. We finished the week and my guiding season with a gentle walk to the valley on friday morning.

I was climbing with John and Fiona Fells this week, we met in Chamonix with a plan to try and climb Mont Blanc after a period of acclimatisation. The weather had put down a lot of snow in the mountains so we had to think about where we could climb that would minimise avalanche risk and not mean to much wading in fresh snow. We decided to go the Dix hut above Arolla we walked in very Scottish misty conditions but woke to a perfect alpine day. We climbed La Luette in great conditions and didn't see a single person all day before getting back to the hut for one of their famous Rosti's. The next day we climbed Mont Blanc de Cheillon in very snowy conditons the summit snow crest was superb feeling very airy and requiring good footwork from the summit there was great views in every direction.

We spent the night in Arolla then drove through to Grindelwald and took the Jungfraujoch railway to the Monschjoch hut, the hut was wonderfully quiet with only 2 other people staying the night, we climbed the Monch the next morning in great conditions though the new snow made the final ridge a bit exciting. After a day off in Chamonix we headed up to the Gouter hut, the ridge to the hut is in great condition with crampons on from below the Tete Rousse hut. On Sunday morning we left the Gouter hut at 3.30am and were standing on top of Western Europe at 8am in very cold windy conditions. The descent was quick and easy on great snow being back at the train by 1430.

Just back from 10 days holiday, Kate and I started by heading to Central Switzerland to try and climb the West Grat on the Salbitchen (ED), I had tried the route 10 years ago and only managed to climb the first of 5 towers on the ridge.

This time the weather forecast was great as we headed to the Salbit bivi hut. The route begins 5 minutes walk behind the hut so we started climbing at first light the first tower is 9 pitches up to 6a+ from the top of the first tower the view of pitches on the second tower looked amazing an intimidating crack which soars up the front of the buttress, luckily it is easier than it looks. Just where the crack starts getting hard you can move onto chicken heads on the right wall which is superb. The climbing carries on over a further 4 towers with amazing situations and perfect rock, the climbing is sustained in the 5's with lots of 5b and 5c pitches and a few 6a onces thrown in for good measure about 4 pitches from the top there is an A0 pitch which could be a bit tricky for the short but soon leads to the summit block. The last pitch to the summit is a superb needle leading to a tiny summit. A new line of abseil anchors leads back to the hut on the south side of the summit tower, if you follow it make sure your ropes are 50m as the anchors are 48m this allows you to get back to the hut in an hour and half from the summit istead of the previous 3hrs.

Climbing on the West Grat

After a second night in the hut we drove down to the Bregalia and walked up to the Allievi hut we climbed the South Ridge of the Punta Allievi (TD-) the south is a great line with some great climbing but has an easy grassy section in the middle which spoilt the climbing a bit, some mist and near showers added to the interest. We had hopped to stay at the hut for a few more routes but the forecast in the mountains was terrible so we headed for the valley. The next day looked like we might manage a few routes in the Val di Mello but rain stopped play and we headed for the med to climb in the Cinque Terra the area of coast near La Spetzia. The climbing was great

with a mix of single and ultipitch routes above the sea.

Kate climbing in the Cinque Terra

I drove over to meet Dan and Chris in Interlaken to find Dan being violently ill and stuggling to leave his room so the planned traverse of the Oberland was out and we needed a new Plan. Chris and I decided to go for a day hike on the hills above Grindelwald, we had great views of the North Faces of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. Dan was feeling much better the next day so caught the first train to the Jungfraujoch and climbed the Monch in perfect conditions. The boys had to be on a train to Luzern the next morning so we had a high speed run up a hill above Interlaken where we had great views of the lakes and the Oberland behind.

North Faces, Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau Dan on the summit of the Monch

I started the week climbing with Joe Malone and his son Steve we met in Chamonix and drove through to Arolla on Sunday morning, we tested the coffee shops of the Val d'Heren while the rain stopped. As the sun broke out we headed up to the Vignettes hut, which has finished it's renovation and is much more comfortable than it's previous incarnation. Monday morning we traversed the Pigne d'Arolla in great snow conditions arriving at the Dix hut in time for Rosti. We had a great night in the hut with a band of travelling musicians playing the flute and guitar. On tuesday morning after a leisurly breakfast we climbed a really nice rocky ridge next to the Pas de Chevre.

After a day off I met up with Chris and Max Considine and Dan Collins from Canada we traversed the vallee blanche on Thursday then raced the weather on the Arete Marion in the Aravis yesterday. The troops are off to Geneva for the weekend then I'm meeting them in Grindelwald on Monday.

A few things to report this week last weekend Kate and Alex traversed the Dome de Miage in perfect conditions then climbed the superb Diretta del Banano at Machaby. I was climbing with Ian and Steve the forecast for the seek started with a perfect day so we were on the first Midi to climb the Peigne, this is always a rush to climb lift to lift but we managed it with a bit of time to spare. Monday said definite afternoon storm so we traversed the Crochu arriving back at the lift just as the weather crapped out. Tuesday was torrential rain all day so we hid inside. Wednesday we planned to traverse the Entreve but the wind was to strong so had a great day climbing at Machaby in the sun. Thursday was less windy so we traversed the Entreve in perfect conditions. Yesterday was raining in Chamonix so headed through the tunnel looking for better weather, unfortunately we didn't find it so after lots of coffee drinking we found some dry rock on a small crag near la Thuile.

We have now had snow down to 2300m in Chamonix which is great for the conditions long term but will make things a bit difficult for the next few days.