British Guides Scottish Winter Test
Rupert and mark on the
Expedition
The BMG Scottish winter test was held at the beginning of march based from Glenmore Lodge. The test was convened by Graeme Ettle who worked with myself, John Lyall, Jonathan Preston and Mark Diggins. The format for the week was a 2 day expedition looking at the trainees mountaineering skills then 2 guiding days on grade V route one day mixed climbing the other on ice the final 2 days were spent guiding a mock client. The weather for the week was wintry giving a good test for the candidates. The test started with the expedition where the skills of moving on a variety of terrain up to grade II was tested using a variety of rope techniques this led into navigation across the Cairngorm Plateau to a snow hole site. After dinner the trainees were tested on their night navigation skills before returning to the snow hole. On the following day a number of routes were climbed around grade II where the trainees could demonstrate their ability to move quickly on intermediate terrain. The mixed climbing day was held in the Northern Cairngorms the trainees had to climb a route at grade 5 demonstrating good climbing and guiding skills. Various teams climbed Savage Slit, Deep Throat, Pot of Gold and Sharks Fin Soup. The ice climbing day was to be held on Ben Nevis but unfortunately due to a large amount of fresh snow it was too dangerous to approach any of the climbs, the trainees will have to come back and repeat this day later in the winter. The final 2 days are often the most difficult part of the assessment when the trainees are given real clients to look after. They have to give the clients an appopriate 2 days showing a logical progression of guiding objectives. The conditions remained wintry allowing the trainees to guide routes like, Terms of Endearment, Pygmy Ridge Sidewinder, Oesophagus, Aladdins Buttress Original Route, Patey's Route, Savage Slit, Andromeda, Astro Turfer and Route Major. The trainees all have to be congratulated on their hard work over the week, assuming they all manage the ice day OK 2 will progress to the Alpine phase, 1 has a 1 day navigation resit that they can complete this winter before going to the Alps and 2 have to come back next winter to redo their client days.