What Guides do on their holidays
Left Bruce and right Kate on Luna Nascente
People always ask what do guides do on their holidays it's obvious- go climbing. I've just had 2 weeks off climbing with a friend of mine Neil Stevenson. The forecast was pretty mixed so had to duck and weave to make the most of the conditions. We started our trip climbing a route called Pegases at the Petit Bargy. It's quite an unusual route for limestone in that it follows cracks and needs a rack of gear.
After Pegases the weather forced us through the Mont Blanc tunnel to climb at Machaby then helped a friend move a shed before heading to the Aravis. We drove over to La Clusaz with Kate so we could get an early start we climbed the 10 pitch Tonneau des Danaides on the Mamule. It's great climbing as a three more sociable less kit to carry on the walk in and if youvate organised not much different speed wise. The weather took a turn for the worse so Neil and I headed to the Ecrin we walked into the Sella hut and climbed the N Pillar on the Pointe d'Amone. This a great route on excellent rock lots of moving together with a steeper section in the middle. The route has a great summit ridge then a quick descent to the Sorellier hut. We spent the night there hoping to climb the Dibona the next day but we woke to snow at the hut. The last time Neil and I had been there was 13yrs ago and we got snowed on then as well. It lashed with rain all the way home so we needed a new plan. The unseasonally cold weather meant that areas that are usually to hot in august were possible venues so the 3 of us headed for the Val di Mello. This is one of the most beatifull valleys in the Alps with some amazing granite rock climbing. We started our trip with the amazing crack route Luna Nascente this is probably the most famous route here and a must do. We had an easier day the next day climbing the 5 pitch L'Alba del Nirvana then finished the trip with Kundalini before heading back to Chamonix,
Neil and I finished the trip climbing the classic NE ridge on the Perseverance before he headed back to Norway.