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Rescuing your partner

If the person in the hole isn't able to climb out for whatever reason you will have to haul them out, if you have gone through the steps outlined above you have most of your system already set up. The next step is take your prusik that you are clipped into, clip a crab into it then clip the loose rope coming from the belay end of the system into the rope. You can add a small swing cheek pulley here to reduce friction.

You have now created a three to one pulley system, as you pull on the loose rope the French Prusik will slide up the rope until it meets the crab this will release the knot when you release the tension on the rope for a rest the French Prusik will tighten up stopping your partner from descending back into the depths, this is called an auto block. It is important to scoop the snow out from under the auto block so that the snow does not impede its operation. If you just stand and pull on the rope you will find it a lot of hard work to move your partner but if you tie the loose rope into your harness you will be able to involve your legs and arms.

It is possible to replace the prusik auto block with a Wild Country Ropeman this has the advantage of reducing the friction and does not allow any rope to slip back through as it tightens which can be a problem with a prusik. Personally I prefer the Mark I as it is less aggressive on the rope and it is possible if your pulley system is under load to release it if you need to let out any rope (be very careful with this as you could easily drop the person you are trying to rescue), this isn't possible with a Mark II or a Petzl Tiblock which is even more aggressive.

When pulling use as much space as you have slide the prusik with the pulley on as far forward as you can then pull it all the way to the auto block then slide it down and repeat until your partner approaches the surface. Take care as they reach the lip you may have to help them get over the edge if the lip is overhung, tragically people have been killed at this point by over enthusiastic rescuers.